Paramount Importance

Political power is decentralised here , operating through District Assemblies, although not all Ministries have been devolved.  Tourism is one such function.   On a personal level, this further complicates my task in terms of recommendations on the development of Eco-Tourism.  From their perspective, a snapshot of the impact of this includes Tourism officers across the regions who have no funds to implement their plans, District Assemblies who feel they lack the necessary mandate to act and operators in the North who feel national marketing efforts overlook their beautiful regions and focus unfairly on the South.  Alongside the workings of Government, national and local, there is another deeply entrenched and powerful structure of enormous influence, although unlike MPs and shortly local councillors, they have no vote in local government.

This is the traditional, culturally led system that includes Chiefs, Group Village Headmen and Traditional Authorities right up to district level Paramount Chiefs.  Yesterday, thanks to the District Commissioner and his desire to work hand in hand with traditional powers, I had the honour and privilege of meeting the Paramount Chief of Karonga District.

We were told to arrive at 10 am – the Paramount Chief lives in his own house about 15 minutes’ drive from the centre of town, although there are currently discussions on the possibility of providing an official residence for the post.  The tall wicker gate was opened as we drove up the dirt track.  A large tree stood opposite the steps leading up to the relatively large house by local standards, but by no means grand or luxurious.  Around the tree stood a circle of slanted bricks, and within that circle of line of non-matching chairs.  4 elderly gentleman, all suited and booted, were waiting for us.  We shook hands, exchanged greetings and were asked to sit and wait.  It was whispered to me that as soon as the Chief appeared I should stand.

As we sat I noticed a pair of high heeled silver sandals at the foot of the steps to the house.  A women later appeared from the back of the house, bowed a greeting to the waiting circle, retrieved her shoes and rode out of the compound on her bicycle.  Minutes later, we were told to go in.  I entered the house first, and saw too late that everyone behind me bowed as they entered.  The room was dark, curtains drawn, black settees on 3 sides and dark wood furniture.  I almost didn’t see the Paramount Chief sitting at the far end of the room in front of the TV.  He was wearing a black shirt, black trousers and black shoes.  Fortunately his shock of grey white hair caught my eye.  I later learned this chief had spent years in exile after a disagreement with the previous president, though I still haven’t uncovered what the disagreement was about.

The meeting was very formal.  I introduced myself and was told to introduce the Tourism officer accompanying me.  It was at that point I realised I only knew his first name!  The poor guy was then immediately subjected to sharp and direct questions about what he personally had done for tourism in Karonga.  Questions he of course could not answer as Tourism is not a devolved function.  Three of his advisers sat at the back of the room throughout our meeting.

I was told when I could record our interview and that he would not be answering any questions of mine, but very much expected answers from me.  He did, however, warm up and enter into a conversation about the sites of historical or cultural interest within his District.  Karonga has a rich history, aside the 2.5 million year old jaw bone of what is now called Malawi man found at Malema camp, the Malawisaurus dinosaur skeleton, the fossils and the museum (a rarity in Malawi), Karonga also saw the only first world war battle in Malawi, there are commonwealth war graves, Massacre hill where Mlozi a notorious slave trader killed 1,100 people in one single day, early missionary history and sacred sites.  Our discussion about the sacred site where paramount chiefs hold their investiture ceremonies and visit at night to consult their ancestors will stay with me for a long time.

On the one hand, it was clear the Paramount Chief welcomed my visit, sees the potential benefit to his people of eco-tourism and is keen to encourage it.  However, it was also clear that this development sits entirely on my shoulders.  The conversation veered between driving civic education to raise awareness of key environmental issues, the need for development, protection and support of places of interest, and the abject poverty of his people - sometimes encroaching uncomfortably on how all hinges exclusively on outside help.  I was criticised for not visiting the border and told I also needed to understand by seeing for myself the development potential of local beaches.  To that end, he had set aside some of his morning to show me the part of the Lake he was referring to.  It was not an invitation I could refuse.  So we were again asked to wait outside whilst he concluded his business of the morning. 

Forty minutes later, he emerged from the house, we all stood, a short conversation with his advisers ensued and he returned to the house.  We sat and did it all again when he emerged a second time a few minutes later.  The Chief and 3 advisers got into his car, we followed, or tried to follow, in ours.  The Chief drove at speed down the dirt tracks and our driver struggled to keep up.  Once at the beach, which was beautiful and completely remote, we walked along with his entourage behind us.  He was more relaxed and chatted a little with a woman washing on the shoreline.  He moved off a few steps, took a brilliant white handkerchief out of his pocket, unwrapped a small wad of notes, and returned to give the woman a little money and shake her child’s hand. 

We parted back at the cars, with his assurance that now he had given his approval for the development of eco-tourism there would be no barriers or challenges.  I could get on with what I am here to do! 

As I climbed into the car, the Tourism Officer was called back by the Chief, “I expect to see you again, with her report.”  No pressure then!